Taking on Tulum

August 12, 2017 Teressa Jackson

Bright and early Tuesday morning, Aaron and I packed our bags and checked out of Gumbo Limbo, our Airbnb in Caye Caulker. We were supposed to be at the water taxi dock at 6:30 a.m. Luckily, we scored a golf cart taxi almost immediately, so we didn’t have to lug our bulky load too far across town.

The water taxi took us to San Pedro first, where we had to clear Belizean immigration. It was pouring rain off and on, and the line moved at a snail’s pace. One man input our passport information into his computer, another woman took our $20 US exit fee per person, and another man stamped our passport to indicate we had left the country. There was a separate line for each – a study in inefficiency if you ask me.

When I purchased the tickets to Mexico, the woman working at the water taxi had told me that we had to pay the $20US Belizean exit fee and a Mexican entry fee of $25US. We learned on the way to San Pedro that she had told us the wrong amount for Mexico, so we had to quickly locate an ATM to get more money so they would let us into Mexico. Of course, in typical Belize style, the first one we found was out of order. Luckily, the second one was up and running.

Back at immigration, the line was nearing an end and almost everyone was ready to board again. We lined up, shuffled on, and off we went.

I don’t think that the water taxi ride is ever totally smooth sailing, but the water was especially rough due to the front end of Tropical Storm Franklin heading toward us. For nearly two hours, we rode what felt like a roller coaster while leaky windows dripped on passengers.

When we finally reached Chetumal, Mexico, we had another line for Mexican immigration. This one was far quicker and far more efficient than the one in Belize, and we soon paid our 500 pesos per person entry fee and were cleared. We scored a taxi for around the same price as the bus would have cost us, and settled in for a nearly 3-hour ride to Tulum.

I began to get an inkling of how much less expensive Mexico is than Belize on the ride to Tulum. We passed several vendors selling pineapples on the side of the road, and most were 5 or 6 pineapples for 50 pesos – which equates to around $3US. In Belize, we typically paid anywhere from $2-3 for a single pineapple.

Our accommodations also reflected this pricing change. The brand new, large, nicely appointed one-bedroom apartment was cheaper than nearly everywhere we stayed in Belize, and definitely the nicest place we’ve stayed on the entire trip.

Tulum pueblo (the town) dazzled us right away with its abundance of restaurants, shops, paved roads, streetlights, and artistic flair. While plenty of the type of bare-bones structures you might picture in Mexico do exist there, Tulum has equally as many new, modern, architect-inspired buildings. Murals line many of the streets, and an eye for décor and design is apparent. Tulum feels more like Europe than it seems related to any Mexican border town I’ve visited.

We rarely ate in restaurants in Belize, but the abundant establishments and the low prices of Tulum were too much to resist, so we typically ate out for a meal a day. These culinary delights included chile and egg stuffed and rajas (strips of poblano pepper) and cheese stuffed gorditas (like a stuffed thick tortilla), cream cheese stuffed and hard boiled egg stuffed tamales, loads of tacos al pastor for Aaron (like shawarma made of pork), quite a few vegetarian tacos for me, and a delicious stuffed pepper that was probably the best I’ve ever eaten. Most meals, including tip, were $5-10 for both of us together. Amazing.

I actually did do some shopping in Tulum, even though I try to keep my possessions minimal. My one pair of earrings had broken, and I just can’t stand to not wear something in my ear holes, so I picked up a nice new pair in a local shop. I also lost my sunglasses, so those were replaced as well. I am so grateful that I was in Mexico when I needed to make these purchases, as they would have been so far more expensive, or even impossible to even make, in much of Belize.

Our first outing in Tulum was to the beach, and it was breathtakingly gorgeous. Jungle-enveloped cliffs tumble down to some of the most beautiful waters I’ve ever seen, crystal clear and turquoise. The rocky shoreline reminds me a bit of California’s coast, but obviously the tropical temperature makes taking a plunge into the water a whole lot more inviting.

We couldn’t leave the area without visiting the Mayan ruins that sit atop the cliff along the sea, so one day we took a cab to this attraction. It’s immediately apparent that these ruins are the reason Tulum pueblo is here, and every person trying to sell tourists something within a 20-mile radius seemed to be on the scene to take advantage of the multitudes.

The blazing heat and big crowds at the ruins made our time there a little less enjoyable, but we made the best of it. I was excited to see a coatimundi just inside the entrance, and the views of the sea from atop the cliff were spectacular. It’s always amazing to think about what it must have been like to live in such a place, and to walk where these people walked, lived, loved, and worked.

One of the most enjoyable excursions during our time in the area, though, was a jaunt of around 3 miles west to the Grand Cenote. A cenote is basically a sinkhole cavern filled with freshwater. The Grand Cenote was home to a plethora of bats, fish, turtles, stalactites, and stalagmites. The water was jarringly cold, but we quickly became used to it. The gorgeous blue water was a great place to snorkel, and it was really intriguing to peer down into the dark and mysterious depths and see the formations.

We had planned to leave this morning, heading to Playa del Carmen, but it appears that our adventurous eating has gotten the better of Aaron. He’s on the mend, but we’ll be in Tulum one more day while he recovers. Meanwhile, I’ve had time to craft this write-up!

La Isla Cariñosa

August 6, 2017 Teressa Jackson

Scene along the island's southeastern side

A 30-minute water taxi ride was all it took to go from La Isla Bonita to La Isla Cariñosa, better known as Caye Caulker or Caye Corker. Aaron and I disembarked, headed up the dock, and grabbed a taxi to take us to our Airbnb.

This was no ordinary taxi, though. The only motorized vehicles navigating the sandy streets of Caye Caulker are golf carts. We even spotted a shop selling rims for these little open-air chariots.

The mantra of Caye Caulker is "Go Slow." I have to admit, I thought the slight downshift was pleasant compared to the exhaust fumes and maniacal drivers in San Pedro.

Caye Caulker is very walkable, with most things around a mile in any direction. This was good since, as we have found with many things elsewhere in Belize, the bikes that our Airbnb provided were in far less than prime condition. After our first experience with flat tires, slipping chains, and a bike lock that didn't work, we decided that our feet were as good or better than wheels.

Similar to San Pedro, there are basically three north-south streets in Caye Caulker. Also similar, "Front" street (closest to the reef, or east side) was the most populated and tourist-oriented route. The restaurants and shops to the west seem to have more reasonable prices and less frills.

In some ways, Caye Caulker seemed to be slightly cheaper than San Pedro. Snorkeling tours were as little as $30US per person, and you could get a big, delicious, filling-stuffed fry jack at Errolyn's for only $1.50US. However, the Banana Factor was the lowest thus far, with a purchasing power of just 4 bananas for 50 cents US.

We stayed at "Gumbo Limbo," located just one lot back from the beach on the reef side of the island, but the water near us was tainted with smelly seaweed that our host said was a recent appearance. The view was pretty, if you held your nose. :-/

The far north side of the island had the best spot for enjoying the water, at a beautiful area called The Split, where there is a narrow channel separating Caye Caulker from North Caye Caulker. The Split has a sea wall with stairs leading down to clear, blue-green water, a high-dive, several bars and restaurants, and no stinky seaweed. I even braved the high-dive once... fun, but one time was definitely enough for me.

Night time on Caye Caulker was relatively lively, with the streets lit up and people out strolling. Vendors sold burritos, pupusas, tostadas, salbutes, and other treats for reasonable prices. Who needs Taco Bell when you can get a big, fresh handmade burrito for $1.50US?

Belize's ongoing "charm" of things being broken, half-functional, held together with string and masking tape is wearing a bit thin. The water taxi here has a route that goes directly to Mexico, so we decided to head to Tulum and points north for a while. We may return to Belize in a bit... time will tell!

Hokey Pokey to Punta Gorda

July 21, 2017 Teressa Jackson

A little Punta Gorda wisdom along the waterfront

It almost looked like it would be a rainy travel day again, but thankfully the skies dried up just before Aaron and I headed out of our accommodations at Imperius Rex. We took a relatively short walk (thankfully, given our heavy loads) to the Hokey Pokey water taxi station, arriving around 9:30 a.m. for the 10 a.m. boat.

I guess we may have been the last tickets before the trip was full, because by 9:40 we were loaded and zipping up the lagoon toward Independence/Mango Creek. The Hokey Pokey is the quickest way to get back to the mainland from the Placencia Peninsula, especially if you are heading south. Cost: $5 US per person.

We had planned to walk through Independence to the bus station. When we got there, though, a taxi driver gave us the irresistible price of $5 US to drive us, and with our loads, we accepted.

Waiting at the bus station, we munched on some snacks and watched the people come and go. There were a few Mennonites and more than a few Mayan people, most of whom in both groups were wearing traditional dress. Even with our unexpected early arrival, the 10:45 bus was at the station before we knew it.

This 2-hour ride took us through jungle, mountains, and several Mayan communities, with lots of large rectangular buildings sporting palm thatch roofs. Somewhere along the way, the Mennonite woman behind us tried to talk to me, and her English was some of the worst I've experienced in Belize. I felt bad, but it was rather hopeless. I do not speak Low German. She seemed nice, though.

The view from the veranda at Mango Manor

At the town called Dump (no joke!), the bus hung a hard left and we were soon gazing at the Caribbean again. In a few more minutes, we were in Punta Gorda. The bus trip cost: $4.50 US per person.

A short hike and golf cart ride later, we were getting settled in at Mango Manor, our new abode. The house overlooks the Gulf of Honduras, and if you walk to the water's edge, you can see Guatemala across the waves.

Punta Gorda is the southernmost end of the paved highway in Belize, and it also appears to be the most inexpensive place we've been. I was able to book Mango Manor, inclusive of wifi and utilities, for just $500 for a month. More importantly, though, is what I'm going to term the "Banana Factor:" it costs $1 BZD (50 cents US) for 6 bananas in Hopkins, $1 BZD for 7 bananas in Placencia, and $1 BZD for 8 bananas in Punta Gorda. We will not develop a potassium deficiency here in Belize.

Having only been here a few days, I'm still taking in Punta Gorda. It's definitely vastly more authentic than Placencia, and even Hopkins. There might be a handful of tourists here at most. There is no beach to speak of, with the land dropping down to the sea, but that doesn't mean you can't dive off a dock if you feel the need to quench yourself with salt water. So far, the highlights have been visits to the Cotton Tree Chocolate Factory and the large outdoor produce market that operates four days a week (MWFSat).

I'm not sure if we'll stay here a full month, but it's nice to have the option. Although PG (as it's known) has four times the residents of Hopkins or Placencia, it's a pretty sleepy feeling place. We're also in the wettest region of Belize during the rainy season... probably a fantastic locale to crank out some artwork if nothing else.

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