Revealing the Beauty at Big Bend

December 16, 2016 Teressa Jackson

View of sunset at Chisos Mountains Lodge from my room

About the time I was coming down with my severe case of wanderlust this summer, I started tuning back in to our National Parks. As I said previously, I was pretty enamored with these destinations as a child. I remember a big beautiful book I had full of big, glossy photos, and how I would look at it and dream of visiting those (mostly) far off places.

I do not, however, remember dreaming about Big Bend during that time. The park has actually been largely out of my consciousness. I think I finally started noticing it after following their Facebook page this summer (along with about every other national park and monument around). The photos I began to see called longingly to me – I had to go and experience this wild, beautiful swath of west Texas!

So, for the past couple of months, I tried to devise a location to stay nearby, a route that made sense to drive me near, or any way I could make my way to Big Bend. Nothing seemed to make logical sense. The fact of the matter is, Big Bend isn’t close to anything or on your way anywhere. If you want to visit Big Bend, you just have to visit Big Bend.

After weeks of overanalyzing the decision, I booked three nights at the lodge in the Chisos Basin in the middle of the park. If I was to visit this wondrous place, I would do it right.

I was to stay in the park Tuesday to Friday, but Monday, the anticipation got the better of me. It would be a seven-hour drive from Austin, and I hated the thought of losing a whole day to driving. I found a cheap place to stay in Fort Stockton, two hours from my final destination, and got a head start.

Tuesday, I arrived at the park around 10 a.m. At first, it didn’t seem all that different than some of the other amazing places I’ve seen recently. It was a beautiful desert with some mountains. When I hiked down to Hot Springs, I started to see some of the magic in the lush green vegetation along the banks of this desert river. I also saw the first signs of clandestine border crossings, with various Mexican souvenirs set out adjacent to a container in which to leave your money.

I followed the river to the east to Rio Grande Village, along to where it enters Boquillas Canyon. I hiked up the beginning of the trail to where the river enters the canyon and stood gazing down at Mexico on the other side. There were men in cowboy hats wrangling horses, and dogs joyously scampering around. It was all very picturesque, and it entertained me for quite a while. I finally continued on the hike toward the canyon, but – I’m going to admit something here – I started to get scared.

I had passed a couple more spots displaying Mexican crafts, and I just started to feel unnerved. Where were the people who were peddling these items? There was no money in any of the jars, so either no one was buying or someone was watching and collecting. When you are by yourself, that thought is a little bit creepy, and unfortunately, it ruined my hike.

A little upset with myself, I left. Sure, it was extremely likely that the people who were selling the crafts were the nicest people you would ever meet... but what if they weren’t? Where is the line between believing that others are generally good (which I do, truly, believe) and being irresponsible? As I have felt at other times, I was also slightly angry at having to feel this way more than a man would. Yes, I carry a knife, but it’s hard to know how a confrontation would end.

The full moon and night sky above the Chisos Mountain Lodge

I tried to shake off my disappointment and pointed the car toward the Chisos Mountains, a volcanic island in the middle of the park. It is believed that these mountains were formed through a series of eruptions a long, long time ago. The low point in the midst of them is called the Chisos Basin, and this is the location of the Inn I would call “home” for the next three nights.

The rooms are a bit dated, but my view was phenomenal. I enjoyed a nice hike down toward the “Window,” an opening in the mountains that frames the desert below. Soon my bad feelings had found their way right out of that window. In fact, they burnt up into one of the most phenomenal sunsets I’ve ever witnessed.

Wednesday, I set off for the western part of the park, stopping at various vistas and formations along the way to Santa Elena Canyon, where the Rio Grande spectacularly emerges from between two towering cliffs. There were no Mexican crafts to be seen here, probably owing to the much more rugged terrain on the other side of the border.

I hiked up into the canyon and descended into a cool, shady, and verdant green oasis along the riverbanks. The trail went as far as nature allowed, when the embankment butted up against the sheer walls of the canyon.

From there, I adventured down Old Maverick Road, a bumpy, sometimes nearly washed out gravel road that showed me some park backcountry. Badlands, brick red cliffs, and a swift coyote greeted me.

The top of Lost Mine Trail, including my feet

I took a deep breath and started up the Lost Mine Trail on Thursday. I was a little anxious, as I had noted that this trail was closed due to high bear activity right up until my visit. However, none of my Big Bend adventures had included the park’s mountain terrain, and I hated to leave without experiencing the forested green elevations of the Chisos Mountains. My mind was definitely set at ease by the number of hikers I had seen at this location the days before. I would not be alone there, that was for sure.

It quickly became obvious why I would not be alone on this trail. I feel sad for those who visited during the closure, because it was spectacularly beautiful. I felt like I took a hundred photos of the same vista, because each angle was more breathtaking than the next. The cloudy mist below only added to the magical beauty, and when I reached the top – oh, when I reached the top! Boom! Wow! Fantastic!

The other pleasurable part of this trail was the opportunity to converse with other travelers. There’s something about our national parks that I believe to be the “great leveler.” Maybe we should all head out to a park and become a better nation, because I had some great conversations on my way up, up up, at the top, and on my way down, down, down. How can you not be of one mind when you are sharing something so beautiful, so spectacular, so life affirming? It certainly brought me back firmly into my belief in the good of others.

The Lost Mine Trail was undoubtedly the highlight of my Big Bend adventure. I easily conquered Grapevine Hills Trail that afternoon, and ate some terrible canned soup (I have decided that all canned soup is horrible!) on my balcony that evening, sated nonetheless.

Nine hours of driving behind me, Friday night I was back in Austin. Yes, I blew my budget a bit with the Big Bend excursion, but no, I wouldn’t take it back for anything.

LBJ for a Day

December 8, 2016 Teressa Jackson

I have always enjoyed history, but typically more in a "History Channel" way than a "history major" way. As such, I have to admit, I didn't know a lot about Lyndon B. Johnson before yesterday. He passed away more than three years before I was born, so I also have that excuse for my ignorance.

I have a really hard time resisting a visit to any National Park or Monument. When I saw the NPS arrowhead for the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historic Park on my way into Austin, I knew I would likely have to return.

The drive out through Texas Hill Country was beautiful, and gave me a better idea of the scenery surrounding Austin since it was dark when I arrived a week ago. There are a tremendous number of wineries dotting the landscape all through this area, which might make for a fun future adventure (anyone want to come drive me around?).

Johnson's boyhood home and his grandparents' settlement in Johnson City were my first stop. Honestly, I had thought that was the full scope of the park until I arrived, and was informed that the LBJ Ranch and home in later years, the "Texas White House," were also located 14 miles up the road toward Fredericksburg.

I enjoyed a short walk through the Johnson settlement, including an opportunity to meet my first real Texas longhorn. I loved the crackling sound of the grasses rustling in the fields there. I made it back to Johnson's boyhood home just in time for a ranger-led tour of the home, which was modest with the exception of the fact that it contained the only telephone that had existed in Johnson City in its day. The telephone, the three porches, and the radio were the hubs of the household and influenced the way that Johnson approached his life from that point forward.

A short drive up the road, through fields of deer, sheep, goats, and cattle, and I was at the LBJ Ranch along the Pedernales River. The location might be slightly remote, but that didn't stop LBJ from having modern conveniences like his own airplane hangar and telephones and televisions everywhere you looked. There were three televisions in both the living room and the bedroom, and even a telephone mounted under the dining room table. We complain about cell phones today - can you imagine what he would have been like with the technology that now exists?

My knowledge of Johnson's legacy mostly consisted of a vague idea of his role in escalating the Vietnam War, his "Great Society" programs, and the advancement of the Civil Rights Act of 1964 and 1968. I was largely unaware of the litany of legislation that was passed during his time as President, during which he had Democratic control of both the House and Senate (which is the situation we are facing in January 2017). Among others, legislation included Medicare, Medicaid, the Voting Rights Act, the Open Housing Act, National Endowment for the Arts and Humanities, the Truth In Lending Act, College Work Study, Food Stamps, the Clean Air Act, and the establishment of nearly 50 National Park areas.

I wrapped up my day with a trip into Fredericksburg, Texas. This town has a downtown full of beautifully preserved historic buildings that are home to shops, wineries, breweries, and restaurants. After seeing so many cute cattle through the day, I was hungry for a burger - so I finished off my day with a (VEGGIE) burger at a place called Burger! Burger!

You're welcome, cows. :-)

Austin, I Have Arrived

December 3, 2016 Teressa Jackson

Thursday morning I bid adieu to my adobe abode in Las Cruces and hit the I-10 east. I was headed to Austin, Texas for December.

I went from the peaks of the Texas Mountain Trail to a land of plateaus and windmills, which gradually changed to a land of hills that became increasingly greener as the miles passed. I learned from my close calls of the past and took ample opportunities to fill up my gas tank and to use the ladies' room. Most of the trek was very sparsely inhabited.

The sun began to set when I exited I-10 for Highway 290, so after that, the landscape is somewhat of a mystery to me. There seemed to be a whole lot of nothing until I arrived in Fredericksburg, which looked like a fun spot to revisit in the near future. Johnson City came shortly after that, and the incredible Christmas lights adjacent to the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park prompted me to turn my car around, surround myself in a magical glow, and snap a few photos.

The rest of the route was mostly steeped in darkness until I began to approach Austin. The city's skyline contained the first tall buildings I've seen since I drove through Tulsa after my time in Tahlequah. After a month in Las Cruces, Austin just has so much stuff.

My Central Austin neighborhood loft apartment is significantly smaller than the 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom house I called home in Las Cruces, but it's all I really need. And yes, it cost more. I guess that's part of what comes with so much stuff.

Unfortunately, the city was dreary and rainy yesterday and today, and is projected to be that way through Monday morning. After a day of resting up from 10 hours on the road yesterday, I attempted to explore today. My first reaction was major sticker shock when I discovered that a public parking lot I almost used was going to cost $10 PER HOUR. I may have to increase the price of my artwork with those rates! Thankfully, I finally found a spot on the street for a more reasonable cost of around $4 total for 3 hours.

I visited the Mexic-Arte Museum, the Contemporary Austin, Voodoo Doughnuts Austin, and the Driskill Hotel. I finally had enough of traipsing around in the chilly rain and took refuge in the Austin Ale House, where I enjoyed a $4 beer special with a plate of fries. A budget-friendly indulgence.

I think I'll hunker down at my place for a while and get some work done (yes, I do actually work) and paint. Come on Tuesday, I need some sunshine!

Fall Colors and a Super Moon

November 14, 2016 Teressa Jackson

Sunday, I returned to the area where rain and fog and wind plagued my route to Carlsbad Caverns. This time, I stopped just short of where the Caverns are located. I was greeted with a far different landscape – one where I could actually view the mountains and valleys that surrounded me which had previously been shrouded by clouds and precipitation.

The clear, sunny, 70-degree day was perfect for exploring Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Sadly, I had actually never heard of this park before I drove through it on my way to Carlsbad, but I certainly recognized the signature shape of the iconic peak that it proudly boasts – El Capitan (now that I could finally see it).

At around 8,000 feet, El Capitan is pretty impressive. However, Guadalupe Peak (nearly 9,000 feet) has the bragging rights to status as the tallest mountain in Texas. I had really wanted to hike to the top of one of these peaks, but with the 2.5-hour drive to the park and the limited daylight hours this time of year, I thought better of that idea. Maybe I’ll become a rattlesnake snack another day. Instead, I selected the Devil’s Hall Trail that ends at a narrow canyon called (you guessed it!) the Devil’s Hall.

The park was gorgeous, and while there were a fair number of people there enjoying it, it was far from crowded. I had plenty of opportunities to stop for a moment and hear nothing but the peaceful sounds of the canyon around me.

Guadalupe Mountains was a surprisingly lovely place to enjoy fall colors, my favorite being the bright hues of the Bigtooth Maples. Another interesting surprise - the park features one of the most extensive fossil reef formations known on earth. The remnants of life from 250 million years ago are above, beside, and below you as you travel through the canyon – a very different experience from that offered at the Falls of the Ohio back home.

I left the park just in time to enjoy a gorgeous sunset and the super moon rising in my rear view mirror – a pretty fitting end to a “super” day. :-)

Sweet Sounds and Big Clouds at Carlsbad Caverns

November 5, 2016 Teressa Jackson

Yesterday, I left bright and early for Carlsbad Caverns National Park. I have wanted to visit this Unesco World Heritage Site for a very long time, and was excited to have the opportunity to spend a very special day there.

The drive from Las Cruces is around 3 hours. The sky was full of big fluffy clouds, with larger masses of condensation hovering at the tops of the mountains. When I got to El Paso, my route took me up through these mountains. The wind was whipping so strongly, I almost lost my car door when I got out at an overlook. Beautiful view, but probably not worth losing something that vital to my travels!

I continued on to the Texas Mountain Trail. After making my way through a Border Control Checkpoint, a sign informed me that there were no services (gas, restrooms, etc.) for 110 miles. With a quarter tank of gas, I was forced to turn around and drive 20 miles back to the nearest station. Suggestion: put that sign a little closer to the actual last amenities!

The scenery was beautiful along the way, but after losing nearly an hour on my gasoline excursion, I didn't stop to get any photos (I returned another day - read about it here). It went from desert landscape up into the mountains, through Guadalupe Mountains National Park. In the mountains, I was literally in the clouds, with drizzle and fog shrouding my way.

Carlsbad Caverns is inside one of those beautiful mountains. I took the natural entrance, hiking down, down, down. The smell of bat guano at the entrance was pretty staggering, although I believe the creatures just left for winter vacation in Mexico.

This cave is mammoth, but nothing like Mammoth Cave. The formations are unbelievable in both scale and quantity. Gigantic stalagmites, giant chandeliers of stalagmites, ceilings full of soda straws - no photo could possibly do their scale or beauty justice. I spent four hours wandering, photographing, and gazing. Then, it was time to wait for my big treat.

Months ago, I happened to see on Facebook that November 5 was a special day at Carlsbad Caverns. In celebration of the National Parks Service's centennial, they were hosting a string quartet from the New Mexico Philharmonic at the Top of the Cross section of the cavern's Big Room. The lucky first callers on the day they became available were rewarded with a free ticket to this once-in-a-lifetime event.

I was one of them!

The crowd at the rest area portion of the cave slowly grew, as most people filed in eight at a time through the venue's two elevators. Finally, we were led back 1/2 mile to the Top of the Cross. This concert was the first of its kind in 83 years, and it did not disappoint. For the next hour, the beautiful sounds echoed across the cavern to a hushed and delighted crowd of around 200 attendees. We were quizzed between one of the numbers, and I was privileged to be one of the only people there from the Eastern United States.

Three hours back through darkness, fog, rain, and mountains, I was exhausted, but still grateful to have been given such a wonderful treat. Happy birthday, National Parks Service!

Blog