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From Ajo to Yuma, my Arizona Exit

January 26, 2017 Teressa Jackson

Organ Pipe Cactus

Monday, I awoke to a beautiful, sunny, mid-60's day in Tucson. It was a bit of a shame that my plans were to pack up and head west, but cruising down the highway with my sunroof open really isn't such a bad way to enjoy fantastic weather. In my opinion, non-interstate driving makes this even better, and that's exactly what I had planned.

I hopped onto the Ajo Highway and headed west. The scenery was beautiful, with plenty of saguaros and mountains to keep me company. I drove through the large swath of land that the Tohono O'odham Nation calls home, including their capitol of Sells, Arizona. I especially enjoyed listening to the Nation's radio station, which was eagerly promoting their upcoming rodeo festivities, encouraging their members to register to vote, and discussing other community events. They alternated between speaking in their language and English, and nearly every call for event participation seemed have the caveat of the Nation "not being legally responsible" in the event of some type of mishap, which I found to be a little amusing. 

The blue skies and puffy white clouds gave way to wind, dense gray fog, and clouds, which added a mystique to the landscape that I rather enjoyed. I headed south at Why, Arizona, apparently named such because State Routes 85 and 86 originally intersected there in a Y-shaped intersection. At the time, Arizona law required city names to have at least three letters, so the town's founders named the town "Why" instead of "Y." 

And now you know "Why." Ba-dum-dum.

Arch Canyon in the fog

My southbound trail quickly led me to my reason for visiting the area: Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. I had not previously heard of this monument before, but when I saw it on the map, I just had to check it out. It's apparently been a national monument for over 40 years, as it was designated as such in 1976, the year of my birth.

Arch Canyon in the sunshine

The monument was shrouded in the same mist and fog I had journeyed in for the the past hour, and made for some intriguing scenery. The landscape there is dotted with saguaro and organ pipe cacti and interesting volcanic formations, making for some truly otherworldly scenes. The organ pipe cactus is a relative of the saguaro, a giant "bushy" shaped cactus that can grow to over 20 feet tall. These cacti are relatively common in Mexico, but only occur naturally in the U.S. in the area around the monument.

One of Ajo's two lovely Spanish colonial churches

After an afternoon winding around the monument's scenic loop, I pointed my car northward toward Ajo, a tiny town with a cute little Spanish colonial town center. The woman who checked me into the cabin where I was staying was about the sweetest person I've ever met, and informed me she'd lived there her whole life. Ajo was home to just three restaurants, and the grocery store was a combination IGA and Ace Hardware. As I picked up some groceries, I imagined that everyone knew everyone else in the store but me.

I spent Tuesday hiking the monument in sunshine, and it looked equally beautiful but completely different than it had the day before. I had intended to do a couple of the trails. However, my hike of the Arch Canyon Trail ended up being more than I bargained for when I unknowingly kept going on a steep, rocky, unimproved trail cut by hikers to the top of the mountain overlooking the "arch" in the rock. It was extremely challenging (and a little bit scary at times), but I did it, and the views were spectacularly rewarding.

I could have stayed in Ajo at least another day, but my reservations had me moving on, so I headed further west to Yuma, Arizona on Wednesday. Yuma is essentially located at the intersection of Arizona, California, and Mexico, and has the distinction of being both the hottest populated locale in the U.S. and the place with the most sunshine in the world. Yuma also grows a tremendous amount of the fresh vegetables you enjoy during the winter, so you can thank them if you enjoyed a salad, broccoli, or cauliflower today (I definitely spotted fields of all of those). 

Date milkshake

I strolled Yuma's cute historic downtown, enjoyed a craft beer sampler at one of its breweries, and visited a date farm where I slurped down a date milkshake in the sunshine. Yuma has the wonderful effect of making me feel vibrantly youthful, as it is obviously an extremely popular retirement destination. I think my hair might be the (naturally) brownest for miles around!

Yuma has been a good place to relax, as my battery was running a little low from moving around so much and my difficult hike. I can't say I've found anything to absolutely love about it, but I certainly haven't found much to dislike about it either. You'll never hear me complaining about the sunniest place in the world. Sunshine makes me very, very happy.

And tomorrow, it's westward ho again!

View of the arch from where I hiked to, way up in the canyon

In My Journey, Locations Tags sunshine, Tucson, west, Ajo, saguaro, Tohono O'Odham, Native American, Sells, Arizona, Why, Organ Pipe Cactus, Mexico, cactus, Yuma, California, milkshake, beer, reitrement
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Austin, I Have Arrived

December 3, 2016 Teressa Jackson

Sunset along Highway 290 in Texas

My Las Cruces Home

Thursday morning I bid adieu to my adobe abode in Las Cruces and hit the I-10 east. I was headed to Austin, Texas for December. 

I went from the peaks of the Texas Mountain Trail to a land of plateaus and windmills, which gradually changed to a land of hills that became increasingly greener as the miles passed. I learned from my close calls of the past and took ample opportunities to fill up my gas tank and to use the ladies' room. Most of the trek was very sparsely inhabited. 

The Lights in Johnson City

The sun began to set when I exited I-10 for Highway 290, so after that, the landscape is somewhat of a mystery to me. There seemed to be a whole lot of nothing until I arrived in Fredericksburg, which looked like a fun spot to revisit in the near future. Johnson City came shortly after that, and the incredible Christmas lights adjacent to the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park prompted me to turn my car around, surround myself in a magical glow, and snap a few photos. 

Me, "Enjoying" the Rain

The rest of the route was mostly steeped in darkness until I began to approach Austin. The city's skyline contained the first tall buildings I've seen since I drove through Tulsa after my time in Tahlequah. After a month in Las Cruces, Austin just has so much stuff.

My Central Austin neighborhood loft apartment is significantly smaller than the 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom house I called home in Las Cruces, but it's all I really need. And yes, it cost more. I guess that's part of what comes with so much stuff. 

Unfortunately, the city was dreary and rainy yesterday and today, and is projected to be that way through Monday morning. After a day of resting up from 10 hours on the road yesterday, I attempted to explore today. My first reaction was major sticker shock when I discovered that a public parking lot I almost used was going to cost $10 PER HOUR. I may have to increase the price of my artwork with those rates! Thankfully, I finally found a spot on the street for a more reasonable cost of around $4 total for 3 hours. 

Painting at the Mexic-Arte Museum

I visited the Mexic-Arte Museum, the Contemporary Austin, Voodoo Doughnuts Austin, and the Driskill Hotel. I finally had enough of traipsing around in the chilly rain and took refuge in the Austin Ale House, where I enjoyed a $4 beer special with a plate of fries. A budget-friendly indulgence.

I think I'll hunker down at my place for a while and get some work done (yes, I do actually work) and paint. Come on Tuesday, I need some sunshine!

Voodoo Doughnut

In Locations, My Journey Tags Las Cruces, New Mexico, I-10, Austin, Texas, Texas Mountain Trail, Texas Hill Country, Fredericksburg, Johnson City, Lyndon B. Johnson, National Parks Service, Central Austin, Mexic-Arte Museum, The Contemporary Austin, Voodoo Doughnuts, Driskill Hotel, Austin Ale House, beer, expensive, national park, plateaus, rain, windmills
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My 5 Experiences in Hot Springs

October 27, 2016 Teressa Jackson

My morning view leaving Eureka Springs, near Morgan, Arkansas

I left Eureka Springs bright and early Tuesday. I was eager to get on the road, catch some nice morning vistas, and put the 4-hour trek behind me. The morning views did not disappoint. Shortly after leaving Eureka Springs, I had to pull over near Morgan, Arkansas to grab some lovely shots of the foggy Ozark Mountains.

I neglected to fill my gas tank prior to leaving Eureka Springs, and my anxiety level started to build as the needle went down and there was no trace of civilization in sight. I had routed myself on back roads so I could enjoy the Pig Trail Scenic Byway, and while it was full of gorgeous views, I have never been so happy in my life to see a gas station. I drove through a few more (somewhat) populated areas, but all in all, the drive to Hot Springs was extremely rural. 

I arrived at the Alpine Inn in Hot Springs a bit earlier than check-in, but Leslie, the very friendly Scottish owner, was kind enough to let me go ahead and occupy my adorable little room. I was feeling worn out and crashed for about an hour. What did I do next?

Lots of Art Deco architecture to enjoy here

1. Walked Downtown and Enjoyed the Architecture

Leslie had said it was around a mile's walk to downtown, so after my slumber, I set off on foot to see Hot Springs. I soon realized that while a mile is very walkable for me, I probably should have driven it first to get the lay of the land. I'm not going to get too involved in national political discourse, but I will say that I don't particularly appreciate males heckling or objectifying me, and this mile involved a fair share of it. While it might seem to some to be a harmless activity, the problem with being the target is you never really know if someone is simply being a little too frisky or if their behavior is a precursor to something more nefarious. 

Once I got into the main downtown area, I enjoyed the wealth of historic buildings, walked around, visited the information center for the National Park, snapped a lot of photos, and headed back to my hotel (pocket knife in hand). 

Not a bad view... :)

2. Hiked the National Park

Wednesday, I got up very early and headed out to the trails of the National Park. I got some lovely morning views as I trekked up the mountain and wound around and around through the woods. I was out for two hours before I saw another human being, which was both peaceful and a little spooky. There were plenty of squirrels, chipmunks, and a deer to keep me company, though. I visited the Hot Springs Mountain Observation Tower, which provided some great vistas of the city and surrounding area. After getting slightly lost on my way back to my car, I finally wrapped up my 4-hour, 7-mile hike. 

Quapaw Baths & Spa

3. Quapaw Baths & Spa

After a quick shower, I visited the Quapaw Baths & Spa. I had been given a pass by my hotel, so the entrance was free except I did have to buy a pair of rubber shoes for $3. Essentially, the experience consists of four large pools of different temperatures of water from the hot springs - 104°, 102°, 98°, and 95°. Always wanting the full experience, of course I hopped right in the 104°. I alternated laying on a lounge chair and soaking in the pool, and left feeling relaxed. 

4. Superior Bathhouse Brewery

I completed my relaxation with a trip to the Superior Bathhouse Brewery, a microbrewery claiming to make the "World's First Beer Brewed with Thermal Spring Water." I enjoyed a Belgian Tripel ($2 off for happy hour!) and black eyed pea hummus (also $2 off!). I haven't been eating (or drinking) nearly as much as normal, and I quickly put it all away. Delicious!

Buckstaff Bath House

5. Buckstaff Bath House

This morning, I woke up early, ready to hit the Buckstaff Bath House for a traditional experience. Buckstaff is the only bathhouse in Hot Springs that has operated continuously since its founding. They don't take reservations, and I couldn't sleep, so I was first in line at 8 a.m. Bear with me because I am going to describe this in detail... I've never experienced anything like it and I doubt you have, either!

I was shown to a changing stall, where I stripped down to my birthday suit and placed all my belongings in a locker. An attendant then draped me with a sheet "Roman Style" and showed me to a waiting area. I don't want to sound negative, but nothing about this is your traditional spa environment - it's very utilitarian. With the exception of the hairdryer in the dressing area, you could truly be in a very different era.

Soon, Mattie called me back to the baths. She had drawn me a tub full of hot spring water and had me disrobe (always back to the attendant) and get in the tub. She gave me two cups of hot water to sip on and scrubbed my back, legs, and feet. Then she turned on the whirlpool (which looked like a giant, ancient mixer) and left me to soak for about 15-20 minutes. This was the deepest, longest bathtub I've ever been in, and it was wonderful.

After the tub, I was wrapped in another sheet and seated on a table. Mattie put soaking, very hot towels behind me and had me lay on them. More hot towels went over my legs and a cool towel went around my face. I was given ice cubes to suck on and left to rest for another 15-20 minutes (I'm guessing on all these times... hard to really know).

Next, I was seated (naked) in the vapor cabinet, which is basically a metal closet with a seat in it, metal doors that come down over your shoulders, and a glass door on the front. I was left to steam for a few minutes with the door open, then a couple minutes with it closed so I could breathe in the vapors. 

The sitz bath followed. Wrapped in a sheet, I sat on the edge of this little tub and slid down in to submerge my hips and lower back. I was also given a stool to prop up my legs while in there. Considering that my lower back was killing me when I got up this morning, I decided that I need one of these in my next home. 

The needle shower sounds more dangerous than it is. Basically, it's a shower with a bunch of shower heads. I was given the opportunity to spend a few minutes rinsing off in there after the sitz bath. 

After that, I had a 20 minute Swedish massage. It was one of the more "no nonsense" massages I've ever had, but it was a great way to wrap up the experience. No pan flute music, no coddling from the masseuse, no fancy oils... just a good, plain old massage. 

I would say that my massage at Buckstaff sums up my time in Hot Springs. Very few people have gone out of their way to be overly friendly to me (except men in cars), but most people haven't been unfriendly either. It seems likely to me that life is not all that easy for a lot of people here. Poverty seems pretty prevalent. I don't want to sound at all as if I am judging anyone; I know that every place in this world is different and has their good points and bad points, struggles and triumphs. This is just my experience in the matter of a few days, and I'm glad to have had it.

I'm headed on to Oklahoma tomorrow!

In My Journey, Locations Tags Eureka Springs, Hot Springs, Arkansas, Hot Springs National Park, Ozarks, Pig Trail Scenic Byway, Alpine Inn, Quapaw Baths & Spa, Buckstaff Bath House, architecture, bath, beer, hiking, historic, massage, mountains, national park
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