Checking Out Playa del Carmen

August 19, 2017 Teressa Jackson

We left our Airbnb in Tulum Sunday morning and headed up to the main highway. Our load in tow, we flagged down a van marked "Colectivo" and wedged ourselves and our baggage inside. These vans run from Tulum to Playa del Carmen 24 hours a day, and are mostly utilized by locals. As passengers indicated their stops along the way, the van let them off. It also continued to pick up people, even though at times I was unsure how they would fit on board. They always did.

The trip was around 40 miles. Colectivo rides cost the same no matter where you get off, and we took it to the end of the line at their station in Playa del Carmen. The cost: 90 pesos, or around $5, for two passengers. Our cab for the final leg of the journey was what we came to know as the typical fare for most destinations in the city, a reasonable 50 pesos or just under $3.

We headed down to gaze at Playa's beach. The seaweed that has plagued most of our trip was, indeed, still an issue. Although the water was pretty, it was also a bit smelly. Next, we strolled a bit of Playa's Fifth Avenue, which we found to be mostly a tourist trap with aggressive sellers and trinket shops sprinkled amongst chain retailers. Not really our scene. Hungry, we caved and ate at a taco restaurant here, and were rather shocked at the bill of over 500 pesos, or around $30US. Considering we had better meals for less than 100 pesos in Tulum, it felt a little like a delicious robbery.

The cenote flowing into the sea at Punta Esmeralda

Over the course of our week here, Aaron and I sampled a few different beach areas, and found Punta Esmeralda to be the winner. This spot on the city's northern edge was packed with locals enjoying a slightly rocky beach and a cool, clear freshwater cenote spring/sinkhole that sent a constant stream of water gushing toward the sea. I couldn't resist chowing down on an elote (Mexican style corn on the cob with mayo, cheese, and chili) for 15 pesos (85 cents) while we were there. Delicious!

We spent a much more expensive day in Cozumel, which is located just across from Playa. The ferry cost $17US per person round-trip, and we rented a scooter for $40US to enjoy some freedom and avoid paying a fortune in taxi fare. The beaches on the island's east side were beautiful, but the rough waves made it impossible to swim. The island's west side is rockier and mostly geared toward snorkeling, but the area near Chankanaab National Park had a nice little spot where you could enjoy some beach and do some snorkeling.

While we enjoyed the jaunt to Cozumel, we decided we would definitely not be heading there for a stay due to the cost. Prices were inflated and mostly stated in dollars. The vendors would then charge you at a rate of 20 pesos per dollar, while the official exchange rate is actually $17.71 pesos per dollar. This created an artificial rounding on already too-high prices, meaning we lost 13 cents for each dollar spent. I just felt a little taken advantage of at this dishonest tactic, even though I know that this type of thing is somewhat to be expected in tourist areas. I suppose most cruise ship passengers wouldn't know the difference, but that doesn't make it right.

Aaron and I really enjoyed the quiet little neighborhood on North 28th Street in which we stayed in Playa, which was comprised of older but well-kept row houses. The Airbnb where we stayed was the best run of our trip so far, as well as being the least expensive. We were near enough to the beach but also close to plenty of authentic shops and restaurants on North 30th Avenue and the surrounding neighborhood. It was lively at night but did not feel unsafe, with lots of locals out for a bite to eat and people singing or playing music for tips.

We have definitely enjoyed Playa, although admittedly not as much as Tulum. Tulum's beaches, less touristy vibe, and low cost of living have probably made it the overall winner of this trip abroad so far. We'd go back to Tulum, and I'm sure that we will in the future.

Next up, we are headed out of Mexico, which makes me a little sad. I've loved our short time here and haven't felt unsafe or threatened one single time. I think if more people from the U.S. would spend a little time in this country, we'd have a lot more love and understanding. I think if I spent a little more time here, I'd really start to get those high school Spanish skills back, but I'd also probably gain 20 pounds from all the delicious food.

Speaking of food, one other aside - vegetarians and vegans, rejoice! Mexico is your friend. I have been truly amazed at the number of vegetarian and vegan restaurants I have spotted in both Tulum and Playa del Carmen. I actually haven't eaten at any of these specialty establishments, but most of the more "mainstream" restaurants have plenty of options for us non-meat-eaters, too. A pleasant surprise!

So, where will tomorrow take us? We are headed to Cancun International Airport, from which we will fly to Miami, but after two hours in the U.S., we'll leave again - this time to Saint Martin/Sint Maarten, a French/Dutch island in the Carribbean.

Mighty Yosemite

June 2, 2017 Teressa Jackson

After saying goodbye to my mother in Las Vegas, I had a long haul ahead of me. I was soon in California, cruising along in one of the state's least attractive stretches, at least in my opinion. I adore the desert, but the Mojave Desert in southern California is exactly what most people who haven't seen a desert picture: dirty, trashy, flat, uninhabited, and boring. I think it may have been the setting for Mad Max: Beyond Thunderdome. As much as possible, I made quick work of putting it behind me.

Just before dark, I reached the adorable historic town of Sonora in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas. My Airbnb hosts, Sarah and Stan, were so sweet and enthusiastic, and a great treat after a long day. I immediately felt at home and loved the view in the waning light from my apartment atop their garage.

Looking down into Yosemite Valley. Do you see the waterfall?

The next morning, I took off into the hills to our nation's longest-protected treasure, Yosemite National Park. The Yosemite Grant was signed by President Abraham Lincoln on June 30, 1864 in the first instance of park land being set aside specifically for preservation and public use by the federal government. This action set a precedent for the 1872 creation of Yellowstone as the first national park.

I think I may have visited Yosemite as a child, but I don't precisely remember. I'm quite sure, though, that I'll never forget it again. I only got to spend one day there this time, but it has certainly landed on my list for a return visit. The park is undoubtedly beautiful any time of the year, but I was simply in awe of the number of waterfalls created by the melting snow during my time there. Most of them drop from staggering heights. In fact, the 1,430-foot plunge of Upper Yosemite Fall is among the twenty highest waterfalls in the world. Thanks to these beauties, I got wetter than on a log ride several times during my exploration of Yosemite's wonders.

I didn't enjoy the traffic at Yosemite, but it's also understandable why so many want to see this great American wonderland - and I'm glad to see them doing just that. However, even the lines for the shuttle looked like more than I cared to undertake. I finally found a place to park and hiked around the valley, gazing at the sheer granite cliffs, waterfalls, and gorgeous trees. It was nice to get away from the crowds and find some peaceful spots to take in the landscape.

My pruny waterfall-soaked feet started to blister as I made my way back to the car, an almost-welcome impediment since I really needed to stay in one place and get some work done the following day. I drove back to Sonora with bare feet and a head and heart full of beautiful scenery.

Seeing Southern Utah

June 2, 2017 Teressa Jackson

I'm woefully behind on blogging again, and my travels have been jam packed with fun and adventure. Hopefully I can get caught up in the next few days. First up - my adventures across southern Utah.

On Mother's Day, I fittingly picked my lovely mother up from the Las Vegas airport. After grabbing some shuteye at a Vegas Airbnb, we took off across Utah. We couldn't help but stop at nearly every scenic viewpoint on the way, turning a 6-hour drive into a 9-hour one. We finally landed in Green River, Utah for the evening, and enjoyed a delicious meal at Tamarisk Restaurant along the river that evening.

The next morning, we were up and on the road bright and early again. We popped down to Moab, Utah, where we met up with my cousin Aaron and his wife Gina to tour Arches National Park. The park has over 2,000 natural arches slowly formed by the elements. It's a gorgeous landscape and it was also so nice to catch up with my cousin, who I hadn't seen in many years. After sharing lunch in downtown Moab, mom and I hit the back roads west.

I hadn't planned to stop in Goblin Valley State Park, but couldn't resist when I saw that we were somewhat close. This hoodoo-filled landscape is part of one of my favorite memories. As we walked to the edge of the depression that these formations call home, I hoped that I wouldn't be disappointed. Thankfully, this natural wonder was just as fantastic as I remembered it from when my father had brought my sister and me there over 25 years ago. I recall our 12 and 13-year-old selves filled with wonder, running around the valley with our imaginations going wild. I think it was an especially sweet experience because it was probably one of the last times my sister and I were more little girls than young women, free of all the pressures that inevitably descend upon one's teenage years.

Our travels continued through Utah's beautiful and formation-filled back roads to Capitol Reef National Park. I don't recall if I had ever been to this park before, but regardless, I gazed upon its beautiful formations in wonder and awe. I was also amazed that pioneers had the fortitude to establish the town of Fruita in the area. They planted orchards of fruit trees, built houses, and worked to make the harsh landscape a home. We spent the following day exploring the park, including adventuring down the bumpy and rugged Capitol Gorge Road.

After the morning at Capitol Reef, we went westward and upward to the town of Tropic, located just outside Bryce Canyon National Park. We dropped our stuff at the hotel and ascended further up to the park. The lodge was a perfect place to grab a filling dinner. I had intended for us to walk to the rim and peek at the canyon afterwards. Little did I know that we would be joined by a tiny snowstorm, not uncommon at 9,000 feet of elevation, even in mid-May. Not to be deterred, we adventured out anyway and enjoyed the canyon view in the waning light and drifting flurries.

Even though we had previewed Bryce Canyon in the snow the evening before, it was a completely different landscape the next morning. The salmon-covered hoodoos shone in the morning light, and my mother was as impressed as I had anticipated. I don't know how you could not be, as it's certainly one of the most spectacular places I've ever been. We rode the shuttle around the park's stops, ate lunch at the lodge, and then we were pleased to discover that the road leading to the highest points in the park had been opened so we explored those vistas, too.

The next morning, we were westward bound again. We made our way to Kanab, Utah, which is where many western films and television shows were filmed, including Gunsmoke, one of my mother's childhood favorites. Just outside Kanab, we spent the morning on a driving tour of Johnson Canyon Road. When we turned on the route, we found ourselves in the middle of a cattle drive, and had the interesting experience of driving through a mass of cows who weren't too happy to share the road. There were many interesting stops along the trail, including some pioneer billboards on the cliffs, the old Gunsmoke set, and lots of geological formations, including Johnson Canyon itself.

After we refueled the car and our bellies (mmm, Mexican food!), we decided that we would drive the highway through Zion National Park on our way to St. George, our next nightly stop. We wound our way through petrified sand dunes and my mother gasped in awe. I gasped in awe myself at the bighorn sheep that covered the landscape, as it was my first encounter with them and they were literally everywhere you looked. After taking more photos of them than I'd care to admit, we continued through the park. Unfortunately, we soon found ourselves stopped. Falling sand and rock had closed the route for an indefinite period of time!

We rerouted ourselves to St. George, instead traveling back through Kanab, then through Fredonia and Colorado City, Arizona. The Inn on the Cliff in St. George was a welcome oasis with a gorgeous view when we finally arrived, and we were more than happy to hop in the hot tub and relax. We enjoyed a peaceful dinner with a fantastic view at the inn's restaurant before turning in for the evening.

The next day, we closed the loop on our jaunt around southern Utah and returned to Las Vegas. I showed mom around Red Rock Canyon and we enjoyed one of our favorite cuisines - Indian food! As mom boarded her plane back to Indianapolis the following day, my car headed in a northwesterly direction...

Returning to the Land of Red Rocks

April 12, 2017 Teressa Jackson

On Sunday, I packed up the bikini and beach towel and boarded a plane back to Las Vegas. With my base tan established, I was prepared for more desert sunshine!

My car had been relaxing at the airport for about six weeks, and I was starting to feel like that was my big Vegas gamble. As the parking lot shuttle rounded the corner, I saw her there smiling at me. What a relief! I assessed the exterior: no flat tires, no broken windows, and no new dings, dents, or scrapes. In the final test, I turned the ignition. Voila! I was on the road again.

Since my time in Vegas had been pretty brief (and I wasn't sure that my car would be ready to roll on down the road), I booked a few days at an Airbnb on the outskirts of town. My plan was to see some of the natural beauty surrounding this land of slot machines, roulette wheels, and poker tables.

Monday, I took a short drive west to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The park was full of people enjoying a gorgeous, sunny, mid-70's spring day. I drove the scenic loop, stopping at most points of interest to take some short hikes, snap photos, and drink in the beautiful landscape. I was afraid I had missed spring in the desert, but there was still a pretty abundant sprinkling of flowers to be seen.

Following my tour of Red Rock, I spent some time on a more typical Vegas activity - shopping. My hiking shoes were ready for retirement, and probably had been for quite some time. After a few tries, I was happy to be able to locate the same type of shoe (Ahnu Sugarpine Air Mesh), which had worked really well for me for the better part of a year. I guess I'm not very "adventurous" in my wardrobe choices! :-)

Yesterday, my trek was a little more extensive. I drove about an hour through sparse desert terrain to the Valley of Fire, a Nevada State Park. I had seen a lot of photos of this park, especially its "Fire Wave," and it did not disappoint. It is home to some really unique formations, intensely red rocks, petroglyphs, canyons, and petrified logs. I drove most of the park roads and stopped at many of the scenic points. Hiking the Fire Wave trail, I saw more lovely desert flowers and made the acquaintance of a few chuckwalla lizards.

Leaving the park's east entrance, I wound my way through Lake Mead National Recreation Area. After about an hour of the area's varied desert vistas and distant glimpses of the lake, I caught up with the throngs of tourists who were headed with me to see Hoover Dam.

I can't say that visiting Hoover Dam was anywhere near the top of my list of places I want to see, but it was actually pretty interesting and picturesque. I am definitely a fan of Art Deco architecture, and it's a fantastic example of this style. The Lake Mead side of the dam was pretty surreal looking, with its blue water, art deco towers, and the waterline on the surrounding cliffs. I'm glad I stopped and braved the crowds!

Today, I am doing some work, catching up on things (like this blog!), and painting. I wanted to take it relatively easy since I have a long drive ahead of me tomorrow, when I head south to Phoenix, Arizona, my home for the next two weeks. Stay tuned for more reporting from the Valley of the Sun!

Desert globemallow and indigo bush blooming at Valley of Fire State Park

Falling for Fallbrook

February 11, 2017 Teressa Jackson

Following a lovely sunny last Sunday in January day at Encinitas' Cardiff State Beach, I wound my way through the hills to Fallbrook, California, the place I would call "home" for the next two weeks. In more ways than one, my Airbnb at Equinox Farms was sure to be a different experience than my previous temporary residences.

First of all, I would be staying in a camper. Although I did a fair amount of tent camping as a kid, I haven't camped at all in years, and had never actually slept in a camper. When looking at Southern California Airbnb options, this was certainly one of the most reasonable arrangements, so I decided to see how I fared in one for a couple of weeks.

Roosevelt the alpaca gives me the stare-down

More interesting than staying in a camper, though, was the property on which it sits. My host Tricia and her husband reside in their home on the property, and have created a beautiful and peaceful oasis of a little farm here. The camper looks out on their menagerie of critters, which include an alpaca, a llama, two miniature horses, a full size horse, two goats, chickens, ducks, a pig, and a couple dogs.

The day after I arrived, I came down with either a tremendous migraine or a terrible 24-hour stomach bug. Being sick is pretty miserable, but being sick all alone is even worse. I'm not one to ask for help, but when Tricia learned I wasn't well, I eagerly accepted the Sprite, crackers, and rice she delivered to my door. It did, indeed, cure whatever it was that ailed me.

Fallbrook is a cute little town that is apparently known as the Avocado Capitol of the World, and I have definitely eaten my fair share of these delectable fruits over the course of the past two weeks. I also enjoyed some local flavor at area restaurants, chowing down on a hearty breakfast at Fallbrook's Main Street Cafe and devouring some seriously spicy Thai food at Thai Thai.

My day trips have included time to enjoy the rugged and beautiful coastline at La Jolla's Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve, the retro vibe at Oceanside's pier and downtown, strolling the streets of Temecula, foggy trips to Carlsbad's Ponto Beach and to the top of Palomar Mountain, and the artsy streets and breathtaking oceanfront of Laguna Beach.

After months in more rural locales, it took me a bit to get used to the way people drive here, but outside their cars, I've found them to be incredibly, surprisingly friendly. Aside from a brief trip to San Diego years ago, I have mostly experienced the culture in northern California. I don't care to delve into negativity, but I'll just say that the demeanor around here seems markedly different from my previous impression of Californians.

One of my favorite pieces I created in Fallbrook, inspired by a pelican I saw on the pier at Oceanside, CA

I have enjoyed the places I've visited, their lush green scenery in stark contrast to the ruggedly beautiful Arizona desert. The hills are covered with boulders that look like they were sprinkled there by a hand from the sky, and the roads in the countryside boast orchards of avocados, oranges, and grapefruit. In other parts of the country, we forget how much of our food comes from this gargantuan state.

However, I truly think what I will miss more than anything is this lovely place I have called home. The camper, while small, really has everything I need. I can gaze out my window and see bunnies, a pig, chickens, and a miniature horse frolicking - all in the same unbelievable scene. I have also been quite productive, cranking out paintings at a relatively quick pace.

Painting of Dolly Llama I created for Tricia in gratitude for her hospitality

But most of all, my host Tricia has been an absolute delight. I have had little interaction with most of my other Airbnb hosts, and really didn't want or need to. They have certainly been responsive if I needed them - this is just a much different arrangement. A successful photographer and businesswoman with a whole lot on her plate, Tricia always had time for a few moments of lovely chitchat. She made great recommendations. She made me feel at home. I'm delighted to have met her and shared her space for a bit.

I'm not ready to take up residence in southern California anytime soon, but this place has definitely carved out a little boulder-shaped niche in my heart. Hasta la vista, Fallbrook!

On the Move & Making Art - December 2016

January 1, 2017 Teressa Jackson

My Austin apartment was above the garage on the right

On December 1, 2016, I arrived in Austin, Texas, after an exhausting 10-hour, 600+ mile drive. I settled into my little loft apartment in the North University neighborhood, where I enjoyed mostly warm weather, a lot of rain, a lovely walkable neighborhood, and treks to various sites around the region.

Austin is a very nice city, but I think I've made a discovery about myself along this journey - I don't particularly enjoy cities much anymore. I'm not really into bars or clubs, restaurants are a great way to drain your cash quickly, and why shop for things you can't haul around from place to place that you don't need anyway? After taking in the cultural attractions, I was left at a bit of a loss for things I might want to do. Plus, I just started getting antsy for some sunshine and open terrain.

Then, late in the month my Airbnb host cancelled the reservation I'd had in Tucson, Arizona for January. At that point, I wasn't able to find a new place to stay in Tucson. A lot of people had recommended Bisbee, Arizona to me, so I decided the host cancellation was my opportunity to leave Austin a bit early and check it out.

From December 25-26, I drove over 800 miles and checked in to a beautiful, serene, solar-powered house in the Mule Mountains a few miles outside of Bisbee, and my soul went "ahhhh." I can see for miles across the desert to the Huachuca Mountains, and my yard has been host to mule deer, birds, cattle, rainbows, glorious sunsets, and the sounds of goats bleating, coyotes howling, and roosters crowing. I'll get to enjoy this little oasis until the last week of January.

I wasn't quite as prolific in my artistic endeavors during December as in November, but I was also tending to some contract work, spent several days visiting Big Bend and driving to Bisbee, and maybe felt a little lethargic and uninspired. I still managed to create the following paintings inspired by my travels and informed by my original photography, as well as one very special commission a friend hired me to create for another friend as a Christmas gift. Some are already sold, but I still have a few left that could bring some beauty from across the U.S. to your home or office.

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Big Bend National Park, Texas: 12/13/16, 19:02:10

Every $25 you buy in art helps keep me rolling on my adventure across the United States for approximately 1-2 days (gas is expensive!). I'm truly grateful to all the people in my life who keep me fueled up, both literally and figuratively!

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Thankful for a November Home

November 2, 2016 Teressa Jackson

Bound for Las Cruces, New Mexico, I was excited to see mountains on the horizon, and couldn't wait to get closer to them. I was also eager to meet the place I will call home for the month of November.

I'm not really sure how I ended up selecting Las Cruces as my first major stop of this year of reflection and relocation. I suppose that browsing around on Airbnb will take you to some interesting locales. One of my goals has been to spend the majority of my time during this trip in places I have not previously been. Another aspiration is to skip cold winter weather. Last, but not least, I wanted a complete change of scenery. Las Cruces fit all of those criteria.

The drive proved to be as wonderful as I had hoped. The mountains grew in size and quantity as I wound through Ruidoso and Alamogordo. Usually, I would have stopped more to explore at these little outposts, but I was both impatient and tired. My inner explorer needed to recharge her battery.

The temptation became too much to resist, though, when I reached White Sands National Monument. I had been looking forward to seeing it, and thought it would be nice to have a preview for when I returned. As a holder of an America the Beautiful National Park Pass, it was also a free preview.

After snapping a few photos and winding my way along the drive plowed into the white gypsum sand, I was back on the road. The Organ Mountains grew larger and more spectacular, and soon I was descending through them into the Mesilla Valley, my new home.

My house has more room than I could ever need, seeing as my earthly belongings consist of four totes, a suitcase, an art portfolio, and a small SUV. It is comfortable, bright, and has a lovely oasis of a backyard. It will make the perfect spot to paint my impressions of the beautiful places I have seen so far on this journey, and it welcomed me with a spectacular sunset to kick off that inspiration.

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